On the midnight train to Hue

After leaving Halong Bay and arriving back in Hanoi, it was time to board the overnight train to Hue.  £25 per person will get you a bed in a four berth sleeper cabin and as well as being your transport and overnight accommodation, can also be your entertainment for the evening.  We shared with a Vietnamese civil engineer who taught us some basic language and a Japanese graphic designer who told us everything we needed to know about Tokyo, including, rather worryingly that even in our three days there, we can expect an earthquake!  After sharing several beers with our new international friends, Ian watched on in embarrassment as Seiya (from Tokyo) taught me some tap dancing and I proceeded to entertain the rest of the coach with my new found fancy footwork!

After arriving in Hue and dropping all our backs at the hotel we went out to explore Vietnams ancient capital.  The Imperial Citadel is Hue's prime attraction and was the former imperial seat of government.  The Nguyen Dynasty was based in Hue and ruled from 1802 to 1945, when Emperor Bao Dai abdicated in favour Ho Chi Minh's communist government.  The Citadel was sadly partially destroyed during the Vietnam war but is slowly being restored to its former glory. 

Hue's food reflects the fact that it was the ancient capital where the royals lived. Ordinarily, Hue cuisine consists of many dishes served in small portions.  One famous hue speciality is Banh Uot, which apparently means wet pancakes and is normally served with Vietnamese pork sausage, fried shallots and salad.  The version we had was slightly different and simply delicious.

Banh uot.

Salad

- Thai basil
- Lettuce
- Pea sprouts
- Mint
- Coriander

Vegetables

- Bean sprouts
- Julienned carrots

Nuoc Cham dipping sauce (see recipe in blog Far for Pho)
- Fish sauce
- Lime juice
- Sugar
- Garlic

- Chilli

- Shallot oil

Crispy Pork belly
- Pork belly

- for the rub (3 teaspoons of honey, 1 teaspoon of 5 spice, 1 chilli deseeded and finely chopped, 2 teaspoons of oil).

To cook, I was told to put in a hot oven for 3 to 3 1/2 hours and place the marinade on the pork during the last hour of cooking.  I would put on 180 for 3 1/2 hours and add the marinade for the last hour.  

Rice noodles, long.

To assemble, place a handful of the salad in a bowl, add the veg then noodles, top with chunks of the crispy pork and then as much as you want of the sauce.  A Hue lunch for three people with one beer and two iced teas for £3.20' bargain.

After Hue, we made a decision to go off budget and get a car to take us to the de-militarised zone, the Vinh Toc tunnels, where the Viet Con hid and fought the Americans during the Vietnam war and the to take us over the Hai Van pass, all three were brilliant, except when we were crossing the pass, the clouds descended and the rain came, so some of the views were slightly obscured, good job I , the Top Gear Vietnam special!  Is it wrong to like James May?!

Next stop, Hoi An